Warping is the first step of weaving. This lengthy and absorbing preparation work will affect the quality of the product. It is to unwind the yarn coils on a large wooden roller, the beam. Two layers of yarns are wound under the same tension and in parallel in precise order to establish a warp of a length and a width determined by the size of the desired part. This yarn will be stored on a metal cylinder before threading.
With threading, each warp yarn is passed through the link of a metallic needle, the heddle, using a hook and according to the chosen armor. For the warp, the finest and most robust yarn is chosen. Since the deformation increases the strength of the yarn, the warp yarn is brought to maximum twist during assembly on the loom.
Weaving crosses vertical warp yarns and horizontal weft yarns. The plait chosen for "Otherways" is a derivative of linen armor; the even and uneven warp yarns are lifted alternately to open the path to the weft yarns. The weft yarn runs through the warp and its passage in the interval is done by means of a shuttle. After each weft blow, the whole is tightened by the comb under the impact of the wing. Their imprisonment produces a fabric which has no back or front here.
The weft thread is softer. Not acting like the warp yarn, it does not need to have the same stamina. What is expected of it is more comfort, warmth and beauty of the material than its tensile strength.
When finished, the weaver cut the warp yarns ends. He ties them to prevent the fabric from fraying and thus forms a kind of fringe. The fabric is closely examined for possible hand mending despite the existence of a control at all stages of weaving.
Washing and drying are crucial steps and executed manually with the utmost care.
Washing is carried out with special soap in fresh water at temperatures and durations carefully monitored.
The natural sun drying provides the sensations of softness and delicacy equivalent to that of cashmere.
"Otherways" products will undergo a final inspection. The fringes are combed and cut to the right measurements. They are then ironed, scratched and packed with care.
